Rokpa News
No 1. Spring 2006
Tibet Nepal Zimbabwe South Africa
The changing face of modern Tibet
Last autumn, volunteer field worker Dianne Twiggs travelled with Dr Akong Rinpoche to many of our 120 projects in Tibet.
Driving into a modern Tibetan town there are often blocks of newly constructed and empty buildings. On the ground level are a series of shiny corrugated metal doors. Closer to town the occasional door is raised to reveal a trader in business.
Closer still, pool tables adorn the pavements. In the busier areas there are tangles of motor bikes parked and groups of men gathered around the tables, socializing and smoking heavily. In the centre of town the shops sell clothing, groceries, furnishings and hardware, often together. There always seem to be several Chinese pharmacies and in one town, to my delight, one with the astounding English name of "Primal Chaos". The problem or the cure?
As we drive further into the Tibetan regions, many more people are wearing traditional Tibetan dress. These towns have a lot more tourist appeal – especially where the town officials try to add a little Tibetan style adornment to the new buildings and they are not simply flat concrete facades.
Talking to children in Rokpa schools I was told time and again "my parents do not have any yak or horses – they all died in a bad winter"; or, "They sold them to pay the Government back"; or, "They have come to live in town and now they have no money...." In the schools few children seem to own more than the clothes they wore. The dormitories are empty of personal possessions: no extra clothing, no toys or books. One of the most common toys amongst these children is a rolled up piece of frilly plastic the size of an egg. It serves as a ball and is kicked into the air and caught with great enthusiasm and accuracy.
All around it seems the traditional Tibetan social structure is giving way. The Tibetans occupy the lower economic stratum and many do not have adequate shelter or food. Many children are abandoned or left in the care of relatives who are unable to support them. It is apparent this is a society in transition. It is also clear that now more than ever, these people need support to survive and to claim their own space in the new order that is emerging.
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